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Building Your Own Magnetite Effect Ormus Water (MEOW)
Treatment Devices for Treating
Water and Other Liquids




ver. 1.0.6

last revision date: 04/03/2010


Introduction: Building Your Own MEOW Devices
It is my intent on this page to offer you some basic guidelines and suggestions for use in building your own MEOW kettles, whether you choose to build a small kettle using a discarded cardboard oatmeal "can" or a large kettle using a 2 gallon 3 gallon or 5 gallon bucket, or using a homebrew plastic shell made out of plastic pipe.

A Short Glossary
Please bear in mind as you peruse the pages of this website the meanings of the following terms:

MEOW -- magnetite effect ormus water
MEOW device -- a device employing a mass of magnetite black sand which is used for MEOW transformation of water or other aqueous liquids. A MEOW device usually consists of a container holding a shell of magnetite with a hollow within into which a bottle of water may be inserted for treatment.
MEOW kettle -- an alternate term for a MEOW device; term is used interchangeably with the terms MEOW device or MEOW alembic.
MEOW alembic -- an alternate term for a MEOW device; term is used interchangeably with the terms MEOW kettle or MEOW device.

If you wish to read more about these terms and how they came into use, please see the section entitled A Note on Boring Terms and Not-So-Boring Terms and a Short Glossary, on the main page of this website.
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Basic Information
There are several webpages scattered across the web where Dr. John Milewski discuses his work with these devices, and also some of the results which he has observed. Some of the several websites featuring John's research work with these devices may be found at:

The first two of the pages linked above also contain basic instructions on how to construct your own basic magnetite water treatment device using cardboard and glue gun construction, employing cardboard oatmeal "cans" or cardboard pretzel "cans" which are available across much of North America and in some other parts of the world.

If you are just starting out in this field and you wish to build your own MEOW devices, you may wish to start with cardboard cylinders glued inside empty cardboard oatmeal "cans", much as John describes on his websites (see notes above), or with a cardboard cylinder inserted vertically in the center of a 2 gallon plastic bucket, although the latter configuration will require about 50 pounds of magnetite sand, far more than would the cardboard versions!

Minimal Guidelines
I am often asked by folks contemplating building their own devices for some basic guidelines for building a MEOW device in their shop, lab or home. Here are some basic minimal guidelines:
  • if you are building the traditional cardboard version using cardboard oatmeal "cans" (each containing about 8 to 10.5 pounds of magnetite sand), I recommend building at least three or four per person planning to drink the water, so that each person may drink one 24 ounce bottle per day of 3-day treated water (aka "3-day" water) or 4-day treated water (aka "4-day" water.) For devices of this size, the recommended treatment time is 3 days to 5 days for a 17 to 24 ounce bottle.

  • if you are building larger MEOW devices for treating 16 to 25 ounce bottles of water, that is, MEOW devices which contain much more than the 8 to 10.5 pounds of magnetite commonly found in the cardboard oatmeal can versions and containing a significantly thicker radial inter-coaxial cross-section of magnetite sand than the 0.92" radial thickness found in the cardboard oatmeal can versions, then you can safely consider the possibility of reducing length of treatment time (i.e., from the standard period of 3 to 5 days) due to the more powerful effects of the larger device.
  • when emplacing MEOW devices for treating 16 to 25 ounce bottles of water, that is, MEOW devices which contain anywhere from 8 to 28 pounds of magnetite, I suggest, based upon a combination of experience and intuition, that you place the devices at least 1.5 feet apart center-to-center in any direction, and I personally feel that a spacing of 2 feet center-to-center is even more optimal, and that is the guideline which I follow for emplacing my own devices. In other words, each of my MEOW devices is emplaced at least two feet from the nearest MEOW device in any direction.
  • when emplacing MEOW devices for treating 16 to 25 ounce bottles of water, that is, MEOW devices which contain anywhere from 8 to 28 pounds of magnetite, I suggest that you place each MEOW device at least 2 feet from any large masses of steel or iron, such as a cast iron woodstove or a steel filing cabinet.
  • when emplacing MEOW devices for treating 16 to 25 ounce bottles of water, that is, MEOW devices which contain anywhere from 8 to 28 pounds of magnetite, I suggest that you place each MEOW device at least 2.5 feet from the nearest edge any electrical devices or appliances which use significant amounts of electricity; this would include desktop PCs, PC monitors, television sets, electric stoves, woodstoves or gas stoves with electric blowers, pumps or electric water heaters. 
  • when building MEOW devices, I suggest that you may wish to use only cardboard or plastic for your inner and outer cylinders. Avoid foil-lined or other metal-lined cardboard or other metal/foil-lined materials. Use only non-conductive insulating materials such as cardboard, plastic and plastic laminates (i.e., phenolics.) Do not use metal for the cylinders; we are not yet sure if metal attenuates the effect.

  • use only magnetite black sand (or magnetite black sand mixed with a supplemental mixture such as the one which I offer) or magnetite black sand along with some co-occurring sands, for the fill material in the inter-coaxial cylinder space. Until you have learned more by experimenting, I suggest that you do not use larger sizes such as magnetite gravel or magnetite chunks over about 1/4 inch in diameter, and I suggest that you do not use other metals or ores unless you know exactly what you are doing. Many, but not all, sands which co-occur with magnetite sand in nature are very high in ormus properties and thus it will often be wise to include such co-occurring sands as part of the sand mix in your MEOW kettle.

  • make sure that the mass of magnetite in the inter-coaxial cylinder space completely surrounds the entire circumference of the inner cylinder, and thus the entire circumference of the bottle to be treated.

  • try to ensure that the mass of magnetite in the inter-coaxial cylinder space extends above the upper level of the water in the water bottle by at least a half-inch, although this precaution is not essential.

  • try to ensure that your bottle is relatively centered horizontally within the mass of magnetite sand.

  • this comment is applicable to all MEOW technologies, and not only to the traditional MEOW kettles: it appears that the effects rendered by MEOW treatment will depend, to a very large extent, upon the properties/qualities of the magnetite sand which you employ as well as upon the properties/qualities of the water which is then exposed to the magnetite for treatment, and even to some extent upon local telluric/earth energies (that is, ambient local subtle energies) and thus, effects you will notice will vary dependent upon all of these variables.

  • for treating bottles of water (or other liquids) with a capacity in the range of 16 to 25 ounces, try to ensure that the radial thickness of the mass of magnetite sand is at least 0.90 inches, and preferably 1.1 inch or more. I believe that that optimal radial thickness for the magnetite mass is about 1.2 to 1.7 inches. While an even greater radial thickness is more effective, it is my observation that the rate of improvement in MEOW effect for increases in radial thickness of the mass of magnetite sand beyond about 1.7 to 1.75 inches is rather minimal. In other words, the greatest benefit seems to come from the first inch to 1.5 inches of radial thickness of magnetite sand and beyond that, we seem to observe diminishing returns for further increases in radial thickness of magnetite sand. Please note that the traditional cardboard oatmeal can design often described by John Milewski offers about 0.92" of intercoaxial radial thickness of magnetite sand. While this is not perfect, it appears to be more than enough to get the job done.

  • for treating bottles of water (or other liquids) with a capacity in the range of 16 to 25 ounces, try to ensure that your MEOW device uses a mass of magnetite sand weighing 8 pounds or more; the greater the mass, the greater the  effect, although for the purposes of treating bottles of water with a capacity of 16 to 25 ounces, you probably reach a point of diminishing returns at about 22 to 30 pounds of magnetite black sand. Please note that the traditional cardboard oatmeal can design often described by John Milewski will accept about 8 pounds of magnetite sand if loosely packed, and about 10 to 11.5 pounds of magnetite sand if tightly packed and well-tamped.  Many of my plastic/laminate MEOW device designs hold from 20 to 29 pounds of magnetite sand, and some hold up to 50 pounds of magnetite sand.
  • do not expect significant results if you try to treat distilled water or reverse osmosis (RO) water, and do not expect significant results if you try to treat dried foodstuffs such as nuts, grains, cereals, beans or dried seaweed.
  • if you have heard some stories from across the world of various physical, emotional or spiritual effects from ingesting MEOW water as a nutritional supplement, please understand that in almost all cases, any benefits were first noticed only after having ingested at least 24 ounces of 3-day to 5-day aged MEOW water (from a traditional MEOW device, that is, a design which did not employ magnets) per day for at least 3 to 4 months, and often after an even longer period of ingestion. In fact, only 2% to 3% of users seem to experience any effects sooner than the 3 to 4 month period mentioned above.

Design Notes

I have designed and constructed a large number of magnetite effect ormus water (MEOW) devices here for my own research purposes. Some of the devices were of traditional design, where my design for the mechanical portion of the device was very similar to that of John's. I have also developed several related MEOW technologies which appear to be more powerful and to render effects upon water more quickly. For the early traditional (i.e., original) type devices which I constructed here for my own research, my design for the mechanical portion of the device has been very similar to John's, with a few tiny changes. I used for the outer container an empty oatmeal cardboard "can", and beefed up the suspended bottom (a thin layer of cardboard) with two or three disks of corrugated cardboard (affixed with a hot glue gun and further stabilized with two lengths of duct tape), so that the bottom would not eventually deform or fail under the weight of the magnetite and the water bottle. For the inner cylinder, I went to Staples and purchased a cardboard mailing tube with an inner diameter which would allow a 16 ounce to 22 ounce bottle of spring water to fit easily. Used a saw to cut the mailing tube into lengths the same as the inner height of the oatmeal container. Used a hot glue gun to mount the inner cylinder coaxially inside the outer shell. I purchased six-pack of 21.5 ounce bottles of bottled spring water at the supermarket and labeled them for exclusive use in the devices; I proceeded to empty the spring water from the bottles and refill them with pure unfiltered and untreated mountain well water from my kitchen faucet. I refill the bottles in the same way after use.

Of course, cardboard and glue construction is relatively flimsy, and the magnetite ormuswater treatment devices made using such techniques are somewhat delicate, fragile and vulnerable, and would never survive shipping if someone attempted to ship them already filled with magnetite sand. When I was finally pressured by colleagues and friends into producing proof-of-principle (PoP) prototype versions of some of the ormuswater treatment devices for sale, I chose, for reasons of durability, sturdiness, robustness and survivability to employ sturdy plastic and/or plastic laminate (i.e., pheonolic) construction. I also chose to increase the inner diameter (ID) of the inner cylinder in which the water bottle is placed from about 2.84" (standard for the traditional cardboard models) to 3" to 3.1", and to increase the diameter of the outer cylinder -- thus increasing the volume and mass of magnetite sand mixture filling the inter-coaxial space between the cylinders -- from about 4.8" to about 6". However, it is important to note that switching from cardboard and hot glue gun construction materials and techniques to use of sturdy, hardy and robust plastic materials and industrial adhesives, along with the aforementioned increase in the size of the device and the mass of magnetite sand mixture employed, leads to massive increases in material costs, fabrication costs, and in time and effort required to build one device!

Dimensions of Typical Cardboard and Hot Glue Instantiations of Traditional Device Design
BTW, if you are wondering about the exact dimensions of the cardboard versions of the devices which employ an empty cardboard oatmeal can as the outer cylinder and a 3" outside diameter (OD) cardboard mailing tube as the inner cylinder, here are the typical measurements which I have observed for typical instantiations devices employing such cardboard and hot glue construction:

Height of outer cardboard cylinder (oatmeal can): ~9.61"
Effective usable inner height (for filling, etc.): ~9.21"
OD of outer cardboard cylinder (oatmeal can): ~4.88"
Wall thickness of outer cardboard cylinder (oatmeal can): ~0.05" 
ID of outer cardboard cylinder (oatmeal can): ~4.78"
OD of inner cardboard cylinder (usually a cardboard mailing tube): ~3.04"
Wall thickness of inner cardboard cylinder (usually a cardboard mailing tube): ~0.072"
ID of inner cardboard cylinder (usually a cardboard mailing tube): ~2.86"
Maximum diameter of plastic bottle which will usually fit inside inner tube easily: ~ 2.83"
Maximum diameter of glass bottle which will usually fit inside inner tube easily: ~ 2.80"
Approximate radial thickness of magnetite mixture in inter-coaxial cylinder: ~0.92" (radial thickness)
Approx. volume of inter-coaxial cylinder area (approx. volume of magnetite mixture needed): ~98.42 cu. in. = 0.057 cu. ft. =  0.426 gal.
Approximate weight of magnetite sand mixture needed to fill device if filled to the 8.4" or 8.5" height mark and materials are not tamped: ~8.4 pounds
Approximate weight of magnetite sand mixture needed to fill device if filled to full height and materials are well-tamped: ~10 to 13 pounds; avg. 10.65 lbs.

Dimensions of Some of My Instantiations of Device Design Using Robust Plastic Shells
Alternatively, here are some typical dimensions for some somewhat larger devices, constructed using sturdy and robust plastic construction along with industrial adhesives, which I have designed and fabricated here in my lab, shown compared with measures for the cardboard/oatmeal "can" version; please note that these dimensions and measures are typical of some of my experimental devices and are not necessarily exactly representative of the exact dimensions of the PoP prototype devices which I am offering for sale to researchers:


Measure Cardboard Plastic
Version #1
Plastic
Version #2
Plastic
Version #3
Notes for comparison
purposes
plastic shell prototype #1 plastic shell prototype #2 plastic shell
prototype #3
material, outer cylinder oatmeal "can" plastic cylinder plastic cylinder plastic bucket
height of outer cylinder 9.61"   9.8" 9.8"    9.38"   
effective usable inner height
(for filling, etc.) of outer cyl.
9.21" ~9.6" ~9.6" ~9.14"
OD of outer cylinder 4.88" 6.275" 6" ~9.25"
wall thickness outer cyl. ~0.05" 0.105" 0.125" ~0.070"
ID of outer cylinder 4.78" 6.065" 5.75" ~9.11"
material, inner cylinder cardboard mailing tube plastic cylinder plastic cylinder plastic cylinder
OD of inner cylinder 3.04" 3.250" 3.5" 3.250"
wall thickness of inner cyl. 0.072" 0.075" 0.125" 0.075"
ID of inner cylinder 2.86" 3.1" 3.25" 3.1"
approx. radial thickness of magnetite
mixture in inter-coaxial cylinder
~0.92" 1.407" 1.12" 2.93"
approx. volume of inter-coaxial
cylinder area (approx. volume
of magnetite mixture needed)
~98.42 cu. in.
~0.057 cu. ft.  ~0.426 gal.
~197.70 cu. in.
~0.11 cu. ft.
~0.823 gal.
~156.92 cu. in.
~0.091 cu. ft.
~0.68 gal.
~523.87 cu. in.
~0.303 cu. ft.
~2.267 gal.
approx. weight of magnetite mixture
 needed
8-13 lbs.
avg. 10.6 lbs.
19-24 lbs.
avg. 20.6 lbs.
16-20 lbs.
avg. 17 lbs.
44-60 lbs.
avg. 56.7 lbs.
magnetite mixture employed:
see note 1 below
<< << << <<
note 1: magnetite mixture employed in filling inter-coaxial cylindrical space: ~95% magnetite sand procured from J. Milewski, plus ~5% supplemental (amendment) mixture which I describe elsewhere on this page.

Please note that the above-listed dimensions and measures are typical of some of my experimental devices and are not necessarily representative of the exact dimensions of the PoP prototype devices which I am offering for sale to researchers.

Further Notes and Q/A on Constructing Your Own Devices
Please see the FAQ page elsewhere on this site for further notes and questions and answers regarding constructing your own devices using cardboard and hot glue.

A Final Reminder About Size of Device and Treatment Time
Although I have already stated these points in the guidelines near the top of the page, it is worth reminding you to keep the following factors in mind when designing and building traditional MEOW devices:
  • if you are building the traditional cardboard version using cardboard oatmeal "cans" (each containing about 8 to 10.5 pounds of magnetite sand), I recommend building at least three or four per person planning to drink the water, so that each person may drink one 24 ounce bottle per day of 3-day treated water (aka "3-day" water) or 4-day treated water (aka "4-day" water.) For devices of this size, the recommended treatment time is 3 days to 5 days for a 17 to 24 ounce bottle.

  • if you are building larger MEOW devices for treating 16 to 25 ounce bottles of water, that is, MEOW devices which contain much more than the 8 to 10.5 pounds of magnetite commonly found in the cardboard oatmeal can versions and containing a significantly thicker radial inter-coaxial cross-section of magnetite sand than the 0.92" radial thickness found in the cardboard oatmeal can versions, then you can safely consider the possibility of reducing length of treatment time (i.e., from the standard period of 3 to 5 days) due to the more powerful effects of the larger device.
Okay, Now I Have Built My MEOW Kettle -- Where Do I Place It?
  • it is always best to place your MEOW kettles at least 1.5 feet apart (spaced vertically or horizontally)
  • it is always best to place your MEOW kettles on the floor on the ground floor of a building, and positioned at least 3 feet from any nearby motors, appliances or electrical/electronic equipment. It is permissible to place them on a spot again, a reminder, higher than the floor, such as on a table or fireplace mantle, but it seems most optimal to place them on the floor. It is also permissible to place them in a room which is located higher above ground than the ground floor, but if you do so, you may witness somewhat decreased performance (this will vary greatly due to a number of variables) and/or you may discover that you will occasionally need to "recharge" the magnetite by placing the container on the ground in a pristine natural setting.
  • on a related note to that above, if your MEOW kettles are located higher above ground than on the floor of a ground floor room of a building, or if they are located in a busy urban or suburban area with lots of electromagnetic pollution or electrosmog, then you may see a moderate dimunition of performance of your MEWO kettle after a few months. In more extreme cases, it may be necessary to recharge the magnetite in your MEOW kettle every few months by placing the kettle itself on bare ground in a pristine natural environment, or by pouring the magnetite sand from the kettle on the ground in a pristine natural environment; the length of the "recharging" period will usually need to range from 3 to 6 hours before the magnetite is recharged. Some researchers feel that exposure to sunlight during this "grounding" treatment is also important, but my own sense, including my intuitive sense, is that exposure of the magnetite to sunlight is not at all necessary and rather, that the "recharging" benefits come primarily from ground contact or near-ground proxmiity of the magnetite in a pristine natural settng. If your MEOW kettles are located on the floor in a ground floor room of a building located in a rather pristine and rather electrosmog-free environment, then your magnetite sand will likely never need recharging.
  • again, a reminder, please be sure to keep your MEOW kettles at least 3 feet from any nearby motors, appliances or electrical/electronic equipment.
  • I personally prefer to place most of my MEOW kettles on the wooden floor of the ground floor living room of our house (we live in the wilderness on a mountainside in a pristine setting with little electrosmog pollution), and most of them are placed around the outside perimeter of the room, snug against the inner wall, so that they are relatively out of the way of foot traffic of humans, dogs, cats, ducks and chickens.

Supplemental Mixture for the Magnetite Sand
As mentioned on other pages on this site, based upon inner guidance (and backed by scientific reasoning), I eventually developed an additive for the magnetite sand which I mix with it before pouring the mixture into the device. Essentially, the supplemental mixture consists of each of the following components:
  • 0.5% to 1% EM ceramic powder mixture; these powders have notable ormus-like properties. This is a mixture of two EM ceramic powders in a specific ratio.  (EM is a name for one type of commercially-available syntropic antioxidative microbial (SAM) consortia culture from the SAM Type 4 category.)

  • 1% to 2% unique mineral sand, a semi-precious gemstone grit high in rare earth elements and unique transition metals. It is imported and rather pricey.

  • 0.5% to 1.5% unique sands and rock dusts, some with some magnetite and good paramagnetic score, high in unique trace elements (i.e., ormus elements, noble metals, rare earths, transition metals) from special sources. This is a mixture of three or more sands and rock dusts.
The actual formula for the third item (the unique sands and powders) listed, along with the overall formula, keeps evolving a bit as I keep receiving fine-tuning guidance from Holy Spirit and the angels.

The first item is simply two SAM Type 4 ceramic powders (Super Cera C Ceramic powder and EM-X Terra powder) mixed; you may purchase them at any of a number of vendors, including SCD (www.scdworld.com) and their resellers; feel free to use my private discount code of VP2004 for a possible discount from some of their resellers on product price; depending upon size of container you purchase, the pricing for the Cera C ranges from $56 per pound (small container) to $21 per pound (large container); the EM-X Terra powder is somewhat cheaper.

It is my intuitive impression that the supplemental mix increases the power of the effect by several-fold, likely largely because of the presence of ormus and ormus-like elements and energies and the presence of rare earth elements in the powder. They, along with the ormus and ormus-like substances in the magnetite sand harvested by John, seem to act as "condensation nuclei" or strange attractors for what some view as "ormus gas", appearing to draw it into the field of the device and into the water where it seems to be trapped in what I call "cages"; John often refers to the resultant creation within the spring water inside the bottle under treatment as an azeotrope.

Availability of My Supplemental Mixture for Adding to Magnetite Sand
I have, since mentioning my supplemental mixture which serves as an amendment to be thoroughly mixed with the magnetite sand, received requests from a number of persons across the world wishing to order some of the supplemental mixture from me. If you are interested, please see the appropriate section on the Prototype Product Catalog page.

Supplemental Mixture for the Magnetite Sand
If you wish to read more information on the supplemental amendment mixture which I have developed which seems to potentize the ormus-creation effects of the magnetite black sand, please refer to the main page of this website or to the Prototype Products Catalog page on this website.


Requests for Bottles of Treated Water and for PoP Prototype Devices Assembled Using Sturdy Plastic Shells

If you are looking for MEOW treated water or for pre-assembled devices and shells for devices (where you procure magnetite from a source of your choice and fill the device with magnetite after receiving the shell), please see the Prototype Products Catalog page on this website.


An E-Mail List Group on Magnetite Effect Ormus Water (MEOW) Treatment Technologies
In early 2007, in light of the interest expressed by many researchers and experimenters in these magnetite effect ormus water (MEOW) technologies, I started an e-mail list group at Yahoo Groups devoted to this topic so that interested persons may discuss these technologies and their experiences and experiments with them. The shorthand name for the list group is Ormus-PWT (which is shorthand for "ormus and physical water treatment".)  The home page for the list group may be found at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Ormus-PWT or you may subscribe by sending an email to Ormus-PWT-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

Disclaimer
This material is offered solely for educational and informational purposes. Any products and/or information presented are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. These statements have not been evaluated by the FDA (in USA.)

Any products, technologies or devices mentioned on this page are experimental prototypes only, produced for the sole purposes of research and Proof of Principle (PoP) evaluation by professional or individual researchers or experimenters. The reader understands that the author is not engaged in rendering health or medical advice or services.  The site owner and authors provide this information, and the reader accepts it, with the understanding that people act on it at their own risk and with full knowledge that they should consult with licensed primary care medical professionals for any medical assistance they may need.  The author(s) of the material presented on this site are neither medical nor nutritional professionals. 

If you wish to learn more about my work and/or about my consulting services, please feel free to visit my main website at www.vinnypinto.us



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